Mar 9-Apr 30th: UDON, LAOS, CHIANG MAI, KOH SAMUI, PATTAYA +
09.03.2012 - 30.04.2012
UDON THANI March 9-11th March
Udon Thani is a fast expanding and developing city with many businesses opening branches there or even moving there in entirety. This is because it is seen as the main gateway into Laos by road via Nong Khai and over the Friendship Bridge.
The Thai government have already announced plans for high speed rail links from Bangkok to Nong Khai, Chiang Mai and south to Hua Hin and are actively considering proposals to build such lines from the Chinese and Japanese. The line to Nong Khai would pass through Udon which is another reason for its development.
Since I was last in Udon the new Central Plaza mall, which was in its infancy two visits ago, is now poised to open and it looks impressive. I have added some photos for you in the gallery.
Another part of the city has been dubbed UD Town by the authorities and it is, in effect, a giant night market selling everything from dried fish to designer clothes and it is great to browse round and have something to eat and drink in the multi-choice food court.
I stayed at the Silver Reef hotel again where I have stayed on ever previous visit. It is clean and comfortable though it does not do any meals however just around the corner is the excellent Coffee Corner which has an excellent breakfast on the menu for all of £2.
VIENTIANE March 11-13th March
Every three months I have to leave Thailand and get a new visa stamp in my passport as I come back into Thailand. I usually do this by going over the Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai, getting a Lao visa for the princely sum of £30 and the doing a u-turn at the border and coming straight back into Thailand. This process takes about 45 minutes. However, on this trip I decided to stay a couple of nights in Vientiane itself to see what changes there have been since my last visit.
Vientiane is another fast changing city which has a lot going for it thanks, mostly, to the many French colonial influences that have left their mark on the city in the shape of excellent restaurants, baguettes and European traditions such as jam making.
Lao, as it should properly be called - it was the French who decided on a whim to add a final ‘s’ a few decades ago – is a land-locked country bereft of beaches which means that the type of tourist going there is not the same as those heading to the beaches of Thailand. What Lao has to offer in abundance are beautiful temples and eco-tourism.
Though Lao is a communist-run country you wouldn’t really notice it these days thanks to the large amount of aid that has poured into the country from the guilt-ridden French and others, including China, as well as the many NGOs working there. There are numerous new projects and progress since my first visit in 2007 has been impressive.
An obvious example of this progress has been the building of a grand promenade along the bank of the Mekong river. What was once a grassy bank where hawker stalls set up at night has now been turned into a lovely wide pedestrian walkway. The nearby pavements, which used to get clogged with the wares of stall holders every evening, are now clear and walkable. Each pavement seller now has a smart red-roofed open-sided tent in which to sell his wares. The scene at night is fun and attractive and there are some photos for you in the gallery as well as some of the promenade itself and giant statue of Chao Anouvong, aka King Chaiya Sethathirath V, (1767-1829) the last Lao king who led the Laotian Rebellion which lasted from 1826-1829. This statue is at the end of the promenade and is is very grand and imposing and was erected as recently as 2010.
I stayed at the Vayakorn Guesthouse which I found after some googling on the internet. It is in a converted colonial house and it has a lovely polished wooden staircase to the upper rooms. Rooms in many hotels/guesthouses in Lao cannot be booked direct and have to be booked through a special Lao tourism website (Teamworkz) which is fine as everything is in one place. However, the fax Teamworkz sent to the Vayakorn requested a single room whereas I booked a double and had written confirmation. I knew nothing about this until I was ushered into a single room on my arrival at the Vayakorn. I put my foot down and said I’d booked a double room and presented my confirmation email. Luckily, the Vayakorn owner was on duty at reception and everything was sorted out and I got my double room and as compensation I was offered free breakfasts and the coffee provided was some of the best tasting coffee I have ever had!! I took some photos of my room for you to see.
I hired a bicycle for a day though I didn’t do much sightseeing but I did visit the large and very busy morning market, the Talat Sao, where I took a number of photos to reflect aspects of market life and the exotic foods on sale and I hope you enjoy the pictures. I also passed the Presidential Palace in Vientiane which is now used for government offices and state receptions was originally built to house the French colonial governors and also served as a royal residence during the brief reign of the monarchy after independence. The royal family was banished in the 1970s.
CHIANG MAI March 13 – March 31st
I have been to Chiang Mai many times before but I always stay at the Anoma Boutique House hotel where I have got to know the owning family who very kindly give me a massive discount on the regular room rates. It is very comfortable and very well located being near to one corner of the square-shaped Old City which means it is about five minutes’ walk to the Tha Phae Gate in one direction and five minutes to the Chiang Mai Gate in the old city wall in another direction.
On this visit I decided to rent a motorbike and I hired a Scoopyi just like the one I have back in Kalasin and I had a hugely enjoyable time zipping around the city and exploring more interesting and out-of-the-way places.
One such place I visited with some friends was Huai Tung Tao lake which also appeared to be a favourite destination for Thai families though it wasn’t crowded when we went there. It is a large lake with some low mountains on one side and nice sandy beaches with some small thatched huts for shade and for eating/drinking/lazing in. It was a very nice afternoon, though so hot also.
I was also taken to some lovely waterfalls on the way to Doi Suthep at Huai Keaw which I never knew existed before but I have passed several times but not seen as they are hidden from the road. There is a viewpoint there which overlooks the city but then you can walk along a narrow track alongside a huge overhanging cliff which follows a stream. Further along there is a large cave and some gentle waterfalls the beauty of which lies not in their great height but in the series of smooth rocks the water flows over. You can launch yourself off the uppermost rock and slide helter-skelter along the fast flowing stream, through some shallow pools and splashdown to a halt into the last one.
I also tried some new restaurants and a couple of old favourites. One of the new ones was Galare which is located way up in the hills above Chiang Mai where the area has been turned into an exotic flower garden and where you dine with a lovely view over a lake.
I also discovered that the Hot Chilli restaurant has reopened in a new location. Astute readers will recall how sad I was to find on my last visit that this restaurant, which in my opinion had the best duck red curry in Thailand/the world, had closed. So I was very happy to have dinner there one evening and the food was as good as always.
I was also able to do something I missed doing last visit which was to explore what is called Walking Street during the Sunday night market. At any other time the street is called Ratchadamnoen Road which is in the old city next to the famous Tha Phae Gate in the old city wall.
Again, loyal readers will remember that I took lots of food photos last time so this time I took photos on a Pattern Theme. All the handmade items on sale at the various stalls are so colourful and often arranged so artfully they beg to have their photo taken and so I did. I hope you like the results!! Do let me know,
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HAT YAI April 2nd – 9th
I had no idea when I went to Hat Yai that it was the third largest city in Thailand after Bangkok and Chiang Mai and I knew little beyond some basic information I googled. It is only 60km to the Malaysian border and thus has many Malay influences in the architecture and food and so on.
I heard about the car bomb that exploded two days before I flew to Hat Yai while I was waiting in departures in Bangkok. It went off in the underground car park of the Lee Gardens hotel on the Saturday two days before I and my friend, who is from near the city, arrived and after dropping off the luggage at my small hotel we walked round two corners to view the bomb scene. If the bomb had gone off in the UK it would not be possible to get up close to view the scene and, at best, all one would see is plastic screens around the site.
In Hat Yai we not only had free access to the area but there was no problem getting up close to take photos of the burnt out Macdonald’s and the shattered windows of the Sizzlers restaurant next door. Not only that but the authorities had the time to take photos of the immediate aftermath of the bomb and have the photos printed onto a large banner for public display; a photo of the banner is in my gallery.
I did quite a lot of sightseeing in Hat Yai: I went up the highest hill to see a giant Buddha and the Brahmin shrine there and admire the panoramic view over the city; I climbed innumerable stairs to reach the top of a traditional Chinese pagoda and I wandered around the cemetery next door with its array of golden statues and I also took some photos around the city by day and night all of which are in my gallery.
I also went to see the Songkla mermaid on Samila Beach, just outside Songkla city, which was erected in 1966 and designed by the then director of the Art and Craft College in Bangkok and is similar to the famous Danish mermaid. The idea for the Songkla mermaid came from the story Phra Apaimanee by Thailand’s most famous poet, Sonthorn Phu (1786-1855).
Incredible as it may seem, there is only one natural lake in Thailand, Songkla Lake, and it is some 80km long and 25km wide. We took a ferry to Ko Yo island, one of several in the freshwater lake, to visit my friend’s grandmother who lives there.
Another evening I went to see the Klong Hae Floating market which was really interesting and colourful. The sellers sit in boats laden with goods or cook food for sale and have a long pole with receptacle at the end to collect money and return change. The sellers also consider the environment by the use of bamboo tubes, coconut shells and clay drinking cups rather than using plastic bags or cups.
Walking around Hat Yai, and occasionally in other cities also, you often see chestnuts for sale which have been imported from Japan and elsewhere which are somewhat smaller than English chestnuts. The locals roast them in a wok with charcoal granules and the smell is a very pleasant one but not quite the come-and-get-me smell of roasting coffee.
KOH SAMUI April 11-18th
I flew to Koh Samui from Bangkok with Bangkok Airways and the flight took just 90 minutes. I visited the island once before in 2007 and I thought the idea of having some nice beach time and seeing all the changes would be fun and that is exactly how it turned out.
I arrived the day before Songkran which is the annual cleansing festival when it was originally believed that sprinkling water over someone helped to purify them. The festival has grown over the decades and has become increasingly popular throughout Thailand as a time of fun and a way to let off steam, and stay cool in the hot season, by splashing all and sundry and daubing their faces with powder. During Songkran Thais and farang take to the streets armed with water pistols small and huge or they cluster in family groups outside their house and everyone that passes gets a soaking. Often the water is laced with ice cubes so you can imagine the shock you feel if, as often happens, you get a soaking from someone behind you.
In Samui I tried to avoid the mayhem though it was very hard as my guesthouse was on Chaweng’s main street where islanders converged from around the island and where there are hundreds of tourist hotels.
The next day was, in fact, Songkran’s main day and it was nice to see many family groups enjoying themselves touring around in the back of a pick-up with a barrel of water to arm their water guns or to fill small buckets to chuck water over everyone.
The following day I hired a motorbike to tour round the island which was fun. Inevitably, there have been many changes since my 2007 visit the most obvious being many more high-end hotels, spas and wellbeing centres and general development but I could not help wondering when the hotel saturation point will be reached. I read somewhere that the island authorities have been trying to lure more high-end tourists to the island rather than backpackers since the former have more money to spend. What is good on the island is that the many beautiful sandy beaches remain accessible to the public and are not hogged by this or that five star hotel.
Not all the island is built up. Far from it! The eastern seaboard is very quiet and peaceful and uncommercial with little lanes running between palm trees and some very nice houses and the occasional very out-of-the-way bistros and restaurants. It was from a deserted beach that I watched a stunning blazing sunset and took a series of photos some of which are in my gallery.
All in all, I had a very enjoyable week on Samui with some late afternoons spent swimming on Chaweng beach, some lovely food and some good fun along the way. On the flight back to Bangko I had a window seat and was lucky to have a clear view down below and I took some interesting coastal photos as well as some amazing photos over Bangkok. Be sure to check them out!!
PATTAYA April 18th – 30th
I flew from Samui to Bangkok and I had a wonderful bird’s eye view of the eastern coast of Thailand from the plane and I took some photos for you.
Songkran in Pattaya is always a week later than elsewhere and I arrived the afternoon before the first day which gave me time to get settled before the mayhem began.
Early next morning I met up with a Thai friend, Nut, and we headed on foot towards Walking Street. It was 8.30am and splashers were already out and about. We bought a small plastic bucket, some small powder bricks (which you dissolve in water in the bucket to form a paste which you use to smear the cheeks of anyone you like) and plastic sealable waterproof bags which you hand around your neck to protect your phone and money etc. My only regret is that I didn’t realise that larger waterproof bags were available elsewhere which would have been large enough to put my camera into and still operate it, so I had no camera to take photos for you.
It was actually great fun. We walked along Walking Street and onto Beach road which, as the name implies, runs for about three kilometres alongside the beach wall. Beach road was closed to traffic and thronging with people. Stages had been set up at intervals where bands were playing or other performers were doing their stuff and in between there were stalls selling food, beer, ice cleam (!) and much else besides. Some stages had giant foam machines attached creating a shower of foam in which people of all ages frolicked while others scooped up handfuls of foam to hurl around.
Not to be left out, fire engines were also parked at intervals along beach road with firemen using their hoses to spray everyone in sight. I know what you are thinking: it sounds AWFUL!! But, in fact, it was great fun. I admit it would not have been fun if I had business to do and it would not have been so much fun if I had been alone. Everyone got wet, but it didn’t really matter because the hot sun soon dried
Towards the end of Beach road there is the new-ish Central Festival Mall which is just the kind of mall filled with interesting and very different shops (by which I mean shops that are not M & S or any of the other too ubiquitous high street stores) that London ought to have but will never be able to. Between Beach road and the mall is a sunken area used for concerts and the like. Today, a good band was playing on stage and the ‘arena’ was filled with people. We went down into the arena and mingled and enjoyed the music. Behind us and the crowd two separate firemen had coupled their hoses to a hydrant and set about drenching everyone below. Crazy, yes, but fun too.
We went back near my hotel for lunch and walked back to where the most mayhem was taking place and rejoined the party. Time passed very quickly and soon it was evening and we walked back along Beach road and enjoyed the music at another stage before going home.
The rest of my time in Pattaya was less dramatic: I spent some time on the beach at Jomtien, did some shopping, browsed the tech stores, and had a second attempt to recover the date from my London pc hard drive. I also saw the movie Hunger Games which was good but could have been so much better. It is reported to have had huge audiences in the States but as the film is derived from a TV series I suppose that is inevitable.
MONDAY 30th APRIL
I took a taxi from Pattaya to Bangkok airport and caught the Thai Airways flight to Khon Kaen where I was met by Mr Jasper and Mr Phong and I then discovered that I needn’t have come back today after all because the first date teachers are required for is May 11th when there is a teacher’s meeting. Until then, the school remains closed. We then did some shopping in Khon Kaen before heading back to Sai Moon.
My room in the teacher’s house was a right mess. Mice had visited the room and left their droppings everywhere in addition to those left by a large Tukay lizard which had somehow died and was lying inert behind the door. The mice had nibbled two of my teaching shirts and had pulled out papers etc and scattered them everywhere. They had also nibbled through the plastic bottoms of two bottles of water which, luckily, were empty so no flood. The room also had a bad smell from all this activity but copious squirting of air freshener effectively got rid of most of it. What fun!!??
The new academic year will start on Monday 14th May I think and I say I think because I’m not sure if what I have heard is correct or not. Assuming it is correct then the term will continue until October when the school will close again for one month and I will return to holiday mode though I have not yet decided what to do. I am eager to go to Burma before all the hotel developers and chain stores such as Starbucks and Macdonald’s inundate Yangon and elsewhere.
Meanwhile, I will have to wait until the end of this month to see if the promised salary increase actually takes place assuming, that is, I get paid at all for a part month at school. I will endeavour to keep this blog updated more regularly and I will be taking more photos for you whenever something interesting happens.
I enjoy receiving and reading your wonderful comments, so PLEASE keep them coming!!
Posted by talismanic 10.05.2012 00:40 Archived in Thailand Comments (2)

